Thu January 03 2013 —  e-mail Manfred

800km Monrovia to Harper, the Liberian jungle.

Flag Liberia

Sunday, May 25 2008

3 years, 10 months, 3 days

Harper, Liberia

About Travel Photography,
Colors of the World.

Manfred is creator of ThisFabTrek.com, travel photography, a travel blog and a photography blog (a journey from 2004 to 2013). 'I set out to see the colors of the world, always I try to capture the colors'.

Seeing, is understanding, so I report and photograph, but formost enjoy and live those different conceptions of life (all that TV [and the web] cannot give). I reject jealousy, animosity, bigotry. Be free!

Manfred in the desert of the Western Sahara

The mind, when pondering at night and always asked those questions. What am I doing in corporate wonderland of bank, university, office or church? Who is the other animal asleep deep inside, the thinker, punk, creative, or Indian, vagabond and healer, maybe artist, writer, photographer, traveler, globetrotter? Oh God, dare you to think. When I saw the lies, gambles and manipulations I follow the old dream and set out for the journey of life lived, the journey to see the colors of the world.

During years on the road I have taken the turns as they came along, and realized one thing: Only such a small part of the planet can be explored and such a vast land and sea mass will always remain unknown, to me; many swamps, jungles, deserts and oceans will never be traveled. But then I am father of twin boys, Daniel and David, my most important, and I show them some of the wonders and colors out there.

ThisFabTrek, Photography and Journey, the Stories from the Road and Life around the World, stopped in August 2013 after more than 9 years, Love and Peace.

Last vehicle.

G20, Chevy Gladiator.

Chevrolet Gladiator G20, The boys in Cordillera Blanca, Peru.
The boys and Chevy van, Peru.

The G20, the vehicle that came to me for the Americas adventures.

6 wheeled Land Rover.

Land Rover Defender 6x6
Link to Foley

The vehicle of the Africa adventures, a Foley 6-Wheeled Land Rover Defender.

Before, the MB307.

Manfred and MB307
Journey, Middle East.

The vehicle of the Middle-East and North-Cape Journeys. See all vehicles.

Daniel and David with nanny Aisha, the best we ever had, black African Woman carrying white twin babies, in Bamako, Mali.

Land Rover 62,145km

Trekking 365km

Ferry 1,514km

Boats 174km

Other cars 43,496km

Travel Blog

contains Festival/Fiesta/Art photography.

"There is nothing more powerful than an idea whose time has come." - Victor Hugo.

"What matters in life is not what happens to you but what you remember and how you remember it, to tell the tale." Living to Tell the Tale - Gabriel García Márquez.

"They never taught wandering in any school I attended. ... they never taught the art of writing a book, either. It's all so mysterious."
"Wandering is an art in itself. Wandering and writing don't mix"
"Writing demands commitment and if one thing your wanderer is allergic to is that very quality of commitment, for once one is committed he runs that very risk of failure ..." Wanderer - Sterling Hayden.

"Photography enables you to grasp a place first time round. ... Photography is a means of exploration, it's a vital part of travel, almost as essential as a car or a plane. " - Wim Wenders.

"The worst prejudice we acquire during our youth is the idea that life is serious. Children have the right instincts: they know that life is not serious, and treat it as a game..." , Egon Friedell.

"How far you gonna go. Before you lose your way back home" - Tryin' To Throw Your Arms Around The World, Achtung Baby, U2.

"If you want to be a hero well just follow me." - Working Class Hero, John Lennon.

"When I think of all the things I have done, I know that it's only just begun." - I love you, Lou Reed.

"One does not escape the Sahara - the Sahara let's you go or not" - Touareg.

"Planet earth is blue and there`s nothing I can do" - This is Ground Control to Major Tom, David Bowie.

"Glory for the crazy people/in this stupid world" - Ahmed Fouad Negm.

www.thisfabtrek.com > journey > africa > sierra-leone-liberia > 20080525-harper

Buchanan.

Map Journey Monrovia to Harper, Liberia.

Download GPS (KML) track/waypoints.

I leave the friends behind. And moving on makes me a happy man. Unless I have work to do, working my internet pages and photos, I'd be rather on the move than stuck.

Dirt Road, smiling Manfred in Africa, near Buchanan, Liberia.
I like it here.

This is Sunday May 18, from Cece beach back to Monrovia past Roberts Int. airport, near Harpel the Firestone plant all the way to Buchanan. 2 check points just around Firestone, also they take themselves so much less serious, traveling is a delight I look forward to the upcoming adventure.

Diallo, Guinean, his Sealand Bar, black walls, Buchanan, Liberia.
Diallo, Sealand bar, serves nothing.
children pose on beach, shipwreck on rocks in back, Buchanan, Liberia.
Shipwreck and children.
My newfound Ghanian friends, pose in front of sea and sunset, Buchanan, Liberia.
My newfound friends. A group of Ghanians.
Ghanian friends, sea and sunset.
Sunset and sea, Buchanan is friendly.

Diallo, the Guinean, has no fridge, no electricity and no beer, I would have accepted a warm one, I am so happy, I have finally moved on. And - once leaving Monrovia, country and people are extremely relaxed and friendly, still poor.

Jonestone and friend, in his hotel looking through wooden window, Buchanan, Liberia.
Joneston, Americo-Liberian.
Jonestone and brother Francis, infront of his hotel The Old Place, Buchanan, Liberia.
Joneston, Francis, The Old Place.

The only place going is the Lebanese Sparks Hotel/Restau/Bar they have the money. But Jonestone and Francis vis-a-vis do their best to catch up with their Old Place, Americo-Liberians. Joneston tells me about war atrocities, the looting around, their march to Ivory Coast 1993, "skeletons moving". Can we fathom?

What sticks out in Buchanan is its cleanness, streets are swept, rubbish bins!!! (the first real ones I come along in Africa) at every street corner.

I hang about its unlit streets till late, speak to so many, they are so curious, sleep in the back of my car just outside the Old Place, no dangers, no annoyances.

Driving away from Buchanan, it starts pouring.

Dirt Road, It rains heavily, picture through wind screen of Land Rover Garmin GPS on dashboard, Buchanan, Liberia.
Rainy season.
Rainy season, winding road, green Liberian jungle.
Lightning near by.
Green Liberian jungle and rain and winding road.
Thunder a second later.

Mud hole full of water, 6x6 Land Rover Defender stuck near Buchanan, Liberia.
Stuck the first time.
Pot hole, 6x6 Land Rover Defender stuck.
Should have gone further right.

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Liberia the green, green, wet jungle. Road to Greenville.

Past the junction to Rivercess, which I pass when it rains heavily, the road becomes increasingly more difficult, especially where they're in the process of building the ditches.

Stuck a second time, this is more serious. Something is rotten, back wheels not spinning. I do not even start digging, cannot hold back the others. Prop shaft is down, U-joint, same one I changed 3 times on last 5000kms.

Another truck arrives, he has no chance making it over the muddy stretch, less pulling me out. We chat, it has stopped raining. He leaves for the village.

"If you see a caterpillar send him over", LCIP and USAID (AllAfrica) are reconstructing the roads, there must be a bulldozer not far. "There is one in the village." The guy replies. Really? I am really lucky! Just I don't have much money. Just 40 USD left.

Slimy Mud, 6 wheeled Land Rover Defender stuck, Africans digging, Liberia.
With my middle prop shaft down, U-joint gone.
Land Rover Defender stuck, Africans digging.
No drive on back 4 wheels.
Muddy strech, Land Rover Defender stuck, Liberia.
I cannot back out.

Mike, Lebanese, married to a Liberian woman, roads contractor, heads up a group of workers, and Mike would turn out to be more then helpful. First he sends for the bulldozer.

Rainy season, Land Rover stuck.
No point starting digging.
Rainy season, Land Rover stuck, behind blue truck stuck, road Liberia.
He does not even get as far.

They tow me out, but leave the truck where he is. I remove the prop shaft, drive with front wheel drive only to the village of ITI just 2 kms away. Mike has a mechanic. We fit a new U-joint, but the size isn't what it should be. In these conditions it'll break soon again. We'll have to look for another solution in the morning. I have a spare prop shaft. A bit longer. Cut it weld it. All it takes is a good welder with good equipment.

Unfortunately I have seen too many bad welders in Africa with awful equipment.

Let's look at it in the morning. It is getting dark soon and quickly in the tropics. I have not eaten all day, wash, they bring me a bucket of water, find a woman selling rice and spicy (pepe) soup of potato leaves. "African foo(d)? You eat?" Mike asks, only speaks Liberian English.

I am so tired, Mike comes around to look after me at 8 p.m., honks, I am sleeping already. The night sees a bright full moon filtering through the damp skies, promises a great morning, it is rather cold.

Muddy road in Liberia, 6x6 Defender stuck, behind long vehicle stuck, African people talk.
But I would have driven through.
Dirt Road, Land Rover and truck stuck, African people, driver, talk.
Or backed out. I don't understand.

Next day, morning. Village of ITI is friendly. ITI was the logging company that operated the camp here, after the company left because of the war, the community kept the name.

6-wheeled Land Rover Defender, village of ITI, Liberia.
Where I spent night.
Morning, Sunrise behind tropical trees, village of ITI, Liberia.
Fantastic morning.
Land Rover, ITI, Liberia.
The heart of the village.
Fantastic cold morning, Manfred in blue jumper, village of ITI, Liberia.
Cold morning.
Antonio, African boy and some other girls and boys at water well, village of ITI, Liberia.
Children's first task in morning.

Mornings are frosty, a yellow sunrise behind tropical trees, children fetch water from the well. Soon sun is up high, warms, people who have been freezing all night move to sit in the sun, get warm, dry the wet clothes from the last few days. The Land Rover dries up as well. Soon it will be sauna hot and humid and sweat will run down in big streams, shirts wet as if taken a bath. I have two coffees, then go about my work on the Land Rover. In good African manners I don't eat. I cannot see anyone else eating something. Most people not even have a coffee or tea to start their day. I put my hat on. The sun is going to be cruel. I have a Ghanian helper, Otoo, been mechanic on a ship that sank of the coast near Harper, speaks good English.

And Mike - has a welder, Mike has equipment, the welder is the best African welder I have seen. We cut and weld and fit my spare prop shaft, as if this is the most normal thing to do in the middle of the Liberian jungle.

Later the police come around for the usual questioning, then later again, need fuel for moped and generators. Don't have as (mine) is a diesel. And later when it starts raining they come round again, 3 on a moped, again talk so sweet, ask for a favour, need fuel. Shortly after they steal it of a guy who comes around with two jerry cans on his moped, they harass him, put him in prison, confiscate his fuel, he doesn't have a receipt for "his" fuel, - but who gives you a receipt in this country? A few years ago, I contemplate; they might have shot the guy.

Morning light, tropical jungle, African children fetch water from well, village of ITI, Liberia.
Fetch water from well.
Fantastic morning, clouds sun lit, African village, mud hut, straw roofed.
Village of ITI.

Thunder storm coming up, huge tropical tree, 6x6 Land Rover Defender, Liberia.
Huge storm in the making.
Cold morning, SMD Samuel Mohamed Darwich workers, building the road, village of Gbayan, Liberia.
SMD workers, friendly lot.
Building of road, River Cess to Greeville, Land Rover on little bridge of logs over ditch.
Road is being built.

But disgusted by the incident I decide to leave with Mike and his workers for where their base is. Why not do some kilometers tonight in company of a befriended vehicle. It rains and the new prop shaft seems to be fine. The remainder of the road to Greenville is supposed to be good anyway.

We arrive very late, darkness again has fallen. Mike orders spicy chicken soup and rice. First meal in the day at around 10 p.m., a fantastic steamed chicken. His workers go with a banana if anything. I have never seen anyone eating.

There is some more chicken and rice for me in the morning. I eat about a quarter, leave the rest for those who stayed in camp. Within a minute all is eaten. Weather is dry and sunny again.

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Road Greenville to Zwedru.

6x6 6 wheeled Land Rover Defender, inspecting a muddy strech of road, Greeville to Zwedru, Liberia.
Always inspect first, measure the depth.

I get to Greenville, a lively and busy place, meet big Ian, the friendly grand Papua-New Guinean, Roland's UNMIL contact, I think he runs the base here in Greenville, "We built this one when Ivory Coast was beginning have its problems years ago", monitor, go in quickly. And he gives me directions.

The road to Zwedru 180km is actually rated impassable by the UN, and I should find out why very soon.

It is only 10 in the morning. We decide that it maybe the best to leave soon, so in case I encountered difficulties I could return to Greenville. "It hasn't rained last night", I say, all is dry now. "Can't see it raining" replies Ian. He must know, helicopters are flying in and out; they must have the latest weather report.

First all is fine - but clearly this is a road that has not yet landed on the rebuilding list of LCIB/USAID.

Adrenalin flushes help me make the right decisions. Often I walk a passage, measure depths of muddy holes, feel if the ground is soft or solid. It is much harder here as there are less tracks to follow. This road is hardly driven, just one vehicle I meet, a SAPO national park Hilux.

Thing is that after every obstacle passed I do not know whether I have seen the worst or if worse is still to come. And the thought makes me weaker over time, after hours I am less able to come up with the necessary adrenalin, "Don't make too quick decisions" I keep telling myself.

My brake lights indicator starts coming on and off. Clearly brake pads are being eaten up in the mud here.

What I start becoming really worried about is to fall over, already twice I have slid along the walls/sides of these huge potholes, with full thrust driving the Landy through and out more leaning than standing. After all I do not want to lose him here, want to bring him home in one piece. After all this may be his last journey for a while.

Bad Liberian jungle road, 6x6 6wheeled Land Rover Defender, Manfred, Greeville to Zwedru, Liberia.
What to do, don't want to fall over.
Defender leaning, slanted, Greeville to Zwedru, Liberia.
Testing slanting capability.
Put all weight inside of Landy, Greeville to Zwedru.
Weight inside, was always planned as such.

The Defender was always designed in the following way. As much on the roof rack as possible for maximum comfort inside with the idea to put as much inside if road conditions required it.

Well - seems we have gotten this far NOW. I put my hat on. Sun is cruel. Two young helpers are quickly found; one hour later a few 100 kilos are in the stomach of the Landy instead of in its head. And all is securely fastened again. From experience I know this is important. I am amazed how all fits as I had previewed it 4 years ago. And - I still will be able to sleep inside.

Unloading/reloading was a tiring work in the heat. Soaked through. I put on a new shirt. I have no money to pay my helpers, give them the Lebanese bread Mike gave me this morning and some small amount of mayonnaise that is left in a jar in the fridge. They're more than happy, but now there's nothing left for me to eat.

I am testing my new found capabilities, it feels solid with the bulk of the weight inside; the center of gravity is so much lower now. But I still have that mud hole in front of me.

6x6 Land Rover Defender, stuck in mud.
Stuck, Diff Lock flips out.
Second time 6-wheeled Land Rover stuck, jungle around.
Backed out again.
Austria, Autriche sign of all Austrian overlanders.
I am from Austria.

Here we go, let the engine heat up. While going into the hole I realize that I would have certainly rolled to the side and maybe over into the bush. But then I get stuck, somehow my central differential lock flips out and leaves me hanging in there, in the mud. No reversing, no nothing, one front wheel spinning, why, what is going on? I have known this car for a long time.

I manage to reverse a little, with only "front wheel drive" to slightly drier ground but still in the middle of the bad stretch. No way with just 2 wheel drive to pull out completely.

But at least now I have room to get underneath in the puddle without using a snorkel. Trying to clean the diff lock lever, the chassis from down under looks muddy brown and water rinses down everywhere, the engine is hot and generates a lot of steam, my glasses immediately get their layer of steam and a few brown droplets, I am still sweaty from the reloading exercise, my back and my head in the puddle, what a mess. I can make out more blind that seeing where the lever sits, in my confusion I use the anti mosquito spray instead of the break disk cleaner, this smells (un)familiar.

Well anyway I get it cleaned and working, click in, click out, click in. Sand ladders underneath and I back out again, the bloody hole remaining in front of my path. What a mess? This doesn't compare to anything I have experienced before in dry conditions in the dunes in Mauritania or the bad roads in Guinea, Senegal or Mali.

I can tell the Foleys brothers now that I have been in the mud. Thumbs up.

I check the diff lock again, click in, click out, click in, I can hear the (normal) delayed click when it locks. Maybe it is not normal. Just go and drive him through, he is strong enough. I put on a new shirt. Still so much mess.

I nearly get through, - most of it, at the end there is a difficult left turn, a bit uphill, you don't want to stay to far right I had figured and again at the most difficult patch my difflock jumps out, front wheel spinning. Stuck; again. I must have been on this spot for 4 hours now. It is getting late. Sun is going down in an hour the latest. Do I really have to spend night here? Back right tire; some differential oil leaks. Must be the hub bearings, but this is not the cause of the problem here.

There is only one way: Get underneath and get the differential lock working! I plunge into the mess, click in, click out, click in, it works. Sand ladders in the mud, a bit of back and forward, out; I press the diff lock lever to the left. Weren't we used to holding it to the left? What a mess? Dashboard, seats, clothes! Just about anything. I am muddy wet all over, from head to toes, inside my boots, inside my underpants.

I drive to the next village and call it - a fabulous! day. Didn't it have all I have been looking for? ;-) I have managed half the way to Zwedru, 90 km from Greenville.

Chebaou town, a guy, name is Teba, "can I park here for the night?" he introduces me to his mother, it is getting dark quickly; the dirty bitch of a vehicle is attracting a lot of attention. But once it is dark everyone goes back home. I can strip, they bring a bucket of water, I find my soap, my flashlight, wash, one bucket for hair, body, sandals. After years in Africa I have learnt how to wash all my body with just one bucket of water. People wash when it is dark, darkness conceals nudity. When I feel again like a man, Teba leads me into his mother's house, - for a meal. Rice and spicy sauce and - pork, 2 small pieces. What a treat? I have not had pork for a good 4 months. I have told him beforehand, "Teba you know, I do not have any money." Still they have served a meal. Shyly I leave a bit, Teba eats it as quickly as he can.

I retreat into my narrow space between the boxes and the coachwork, really my new home is a lot less spacious. Already people knock, they want a lift tomorrow. It is full moon, cloudless, stars out, some blink. In Africa when there is a full moon children stay up as long as they want, dance, play, the old women hum some song/melody, the men discuss matters calmly; this is a friendly village. I sleep quietly all night.

6 wheeled Land Rover repairs in village of Chebaou town, Liberia.
Friendly Chebaou town.
Bush repairs on Land Rover, Chebaou town Liberia.
Repairs.
Land Rover jungle repairs, villagers around, road Greeville to Zwedru, Liberia.
Not finished.
Land Rover repairs in African village. Liberia.
Finished.

A new day! Again a day with no food in the morning, and then all day long. Though Teba's mother asks before she goes into the bush, many people disappear during the day "for the bush", maybe for plantations, we are in a national park, no plantations allowed, or maybe they are wanted now to face the food crises. I manage to change my last 20 USD and pay his mother some for last night's delicious meal. With my money I can buy bananas during the day.

They wash my boots, my clothes; wash the car's front, the driver's cabin.

Right back wheel, new brake pads, inner and outer hub bearing need changing, I do as if I have done it 100 times, knock the rings out, grate the iron where it has been eaten up knock back in the new rings, the seal ring, grease the bearings, grate and refit all. I can do stuff these days, after 3 years in Africa. - Well maybe as long as we stick with U-joints and hub bearings.

The rest is all ok, even the central differential lock. Howevere I will hold the lever to the left always in rough terrain.

Huge tropical trees, dirt track, 6 wheeled Land Rover Defender in twilight.
Best driving.
Evening twilight, African Abdenego and I, near Zwedru, Liberia.
Abdenego and I.

We leave at 3 o'clock, nothing eaten apart from bananas. Abdenego has made the ticket. I am happy to have someone with me on a road like this.

And this ride up to Zwedru is the best I have ever done in my Land Rover, a powerful 6x6 beast with a low center of gravity it is now. My co-driver gives me good directions, and we never ever get stuck, manage really difficult patches, on his 6 wheels, he just keeps crawling when the mud wave spills over the bonnet and inside the cabin by the side window. And it cannot fall over, which means I can drive him so normal, or better a bit aggressive.

Best ever experience; truly amazing.

We arrive after darkness. Zwedru is lively, lots of brightly lit cafes, bars, restaurants, it doesn't seem poor. "The good thing about the war is that a lot of people have come home with different ideas. Before we did not really have a cafe, or fast food culture, - like Cote d'Ivoire," someone in Harper would explain to me.

I have changed money earlier, Abdenego organizes beer, the all too delicious Club beer from Monrovia Breweries Inc. in 66cl bottles, a bucket of water, I wash under the cover of the night, his sister prepares food, he washes my boots and some clothes, a pair of trousers I would forget the next morning, never mind.

Again I am so tired; sleep in the car just outside the compound where his sister lives, in the center of town. No special security required, Liberia is a save country.

A tire needs changing, repairing in the morning, then I am on my way.

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To Harper, Maryland, Liberia.

Huge brown stream, from Liberian jungle, sunlight reflects in water, dark clouds in back, Zwedru to Harper.
Huge brown streams from Liberia's jungle.
Truck stuck in hole, 6 wheeled Land Rover Defender next to it, Liberia.
Road stays bad.

First 120 kms are good newly Chinese rebuilt roads. I change another set of brake pads soon, this doesn't take 20 minutes. Then the road is getting a lot worse again, it'll take me the whole day, it is beautiful driving of mad stretches, with the weight inside no problem, - and the diff lock lever I keep holding. 3 weeks later in Bamako my mechanic would explain me the cause; a defect bearing in the transfer box.

In the end when evening falls again nearly all the wheels cry in agony, where there had been brake pads now metal scratches metal, but there are no spares anymore. In the end the alternator stops working, lights stop working. A piece of the high jack lift mount falls off.

I ride into Harper late, I am happy, I have made it through 800 kms of Liberian jungle in 6 days.

One diesel filling from Monrovia, no money, no food, lots of repairs, desperation. The Landy has performed like never before.

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Sophie's spot.

Harper, Maryland, Liberia, sit at sophie's spot cafe in mechlin street, 6x6 Land Rover Defender parked on other side, African woman with load on her head walks by, white plastic chairs and tables.
I am in Harper.

Immediately I like Harper. Where I park the car the first evening I stay and sleep, opposite Sophie's Spot in Mechlin Street outside Ibrahim's carpenter's shop not far from Black and White, Ivorian owned night club.

I shake hundreds of hands, and hundreds more in the next few days. I meet Jeff, Kate, Ibrahim, Sunday, Vlad and Sasha, Patrick, Felimen, Mohamed and so many others, countless nationalities, from Fiji to Russia, UN, NGO, Lebanese, Guinean, Senegalese, Ivorian, and so many Liberians, Samy and Howl, Aaron and Alfred and Julian, Antonio, Jimmy and Bobby. Rubber farmers, journalists, members of the Tubman family.

Vlad, Russian UN computer specialist, 6 years in Liberia, his brand is a parrot on his shoulder takes me swimming. I mean where else in the world can you be a nice guy, hard working computer specialist that keeps the networks running at the UN and live your dream, your bird on your shoulder. Not in NY, not in London. I subsequently shower in a heavy rain shower. Isn't the name meant to be for what it could serve as.

Late at night I usually get drunk on Club beer in the Black and White night club. And on Saturday I see them all there George the Lebanese, Sasha the Bosnian, their seats are behind the bar, what an honor! And Ivorian music gives me a sense of foretaste, an avant-goût, a longing for la Cote d'Ivoire, my next country.

Harper, Maryland, Liberia, sophie's spot cafe in mechlin street, 6x6 Land Rover Defender parked, African father and children walk by, white plastic chairs and tables, 2 white and red UN Police Land Cruisers parked next to Land Rover.
2 UN Police Land Cruisers.
Sophie's spot African mother, girls and daughters walk by, Uninted Nations Land Cruisers.
The world walks by.

Harper, Liberia, Sophie's spot, cafe and Madame Felimen from Cote d'Ivoire drinks Club beer from Monrovia breweries.
Madame Felimen enjoys her Club beer.
Sophie's spot, Land Rover parked on other (sunny) side.
So do I, It is getting late.

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Children in Harper.

Harper, Liberia, African children on beach, close up.
Children on beach.
Harper, Liberia, 4 African children dressed in red on church steps.
On church steps.
4 African children all dressed in red on church steps.
4 African children dressed in red on church steps. Close-up.
4 African children dressed in red on church steps.

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Fish in Harper.

Harper, Liberia, African child on top of pirogue, harbor in back, black against sun.
Boy on Pirogue.
Harper, Liberia, African man in pirogue, another pirogue with many Ivorian flags. Cloudy,
Fishing and Rain clouds.
Harper, Liberia, children in pirogue, fish is being sold.
Distribution of fish.
Harper, Maryland, Liberia, African women looking at scars fish catch.
Women, ...
Harper, Maryland, Liberia, at sea front, Fish market, pirogues.
... fish is scars.

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Harper, Maryland, Liberia. President Tubman, 1944 to 1971 was from here.

William Tubman (wiki), from the ruling minority party which never represented more than 5% of population, at the time of one party rule. Freemason and autocrat.

Still, he was the only president who had ever done something for the country, widely regarded as father of modern Liberia.

Born in Harper, his hometown received special attention.

Harper, Maryland, Liberia, Tubman villa.
Villa in ruins belonging to Tubman family.
Harper, Maryland, Liberia, Church cathedral.
Many churches in Harper.
Harper, Maryland, Liberia, Presidential Palace, Villa of Tubmen.
Presidential Tubman villa.
Harper, Maryland, Liberia, red iron door with no guns sign, barbed wire.
Broken guns.
Harper, Maryland, Liberia, view from Cape UN-base towards Red Cross Commitee and Danish Refugee Council DRC mission.
View to DRC and IRCC.

Harper, Maryland, Liberia, It pours, thunder storm, womem and children shelter.
It pours, we seek shelter.
Harper, Maryland, Liberia, old African man with bad eye and cap, guardian of freemason temple.
Old Man with bad eye.

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